As you look at each of the photos below, it should be noted that by "clicking" on any photo you'll get a zoomed in presentation of the photo. To come back to this page, simply press your browsers "back" button. In addition to a complete renovation of the boat, so too is it true of the trailer that it sits on. As of this writing it is being completely rebuilt using the best of current day steel at a local fabrication & manufacturing shop. Once that is all done, she will get a new coat of paint as well. All of the items pictured below have been purchased and either installed or will be installed shortly.
The first time we went to go look at the 1970 Combo Cruiser
This time we are here to pick her up and take her home.
Getting ready to hook her up for the tow home.
View from the stern.
Port Bow View
Port Quarter view.
Port Side view
Starboard Quarter View.
Looking in through the front windows.
Looking forward inside.
Looking aft.
The dinning table which drops down to make a bed.
Another view aft.
Looking at the helm.
A view of the kitchen sink.
The tear down/deconstruction begins.
It's a slow tedious process.
Initially looking at was the original water lines (copper) which at some point froze and ruptured.
Tearing down the aft engine compartment.
Another view of the floor and water lines about to be torn out.
This is a picture with only the front two sections of floor removed.
Another similar photo that also shows the front access window/hatch.
Tearing up the flotation foam started out to be quite a chore until I decided to try a flat head shovel that cut through the foam nicely and also provided a good lever by which to pry out each piece.
I even was able to achieve a little help.
It is clear to see that this foam was poured in sections or batches. Such was the case through out the boat.
It is easy to see some of the cross supports upon which the floor boards themselves lay. What cannot yet be seen is that everyone of them are severely deteriorated to virtual dust. They do not actually provide any noteworthy structural support at all.
If you look closely, you can see the remnants of the main full length runners that where totally rotted away. There was no part of either of them that would support even a couple of pounds. Without exaggeration they were little more than dust.
The black that you see in this photo is what is left of the main structural support beams. The flotation foam is the only thing that provided the little support that was there.
Still more evidence of the severe wood rot of the primary runners/support beams upon which everything else is built.
More ghost wood.
Removal progress is slow and tedious.
Making more progress.
You can see the bolts that come up through the hull that are supposed to secure the primary runners to the hull. The small pipe-like looking item is the top portion of the original sonar depth finder. It still functions too.
It cleans up pretty nicely.
The toilet/shower stall is what you see on the left side
Just about ready to pull down the last wall/support the provides lateral stability to the upper portion of the boat.
I decided to leave the cabinets on the starboard side up for now as they are out of my way.
These 6x6 engine support beams are mush, just like the rest of the wood in this boat.
The black is wood dust from rot.
Another view of the horrible deterioration of the wood.
Little by little I am getting it all torn out for the rebuild/restoration.
A view of the work done before I bought the boat.
Looks are deceiving. It is hard to tell that there is NO noteworthy strength or salvageable wood left of the engine mount.
Here is a look at the same thing upon closer inspection.
A view of the debris.
Does it ever end?
Working to remove all of the derelict old structural material.
Ultimately I have decided to leave the back half of this panel after cutting out the rotted portion.
Finally getting it all cleaned up so that I can work in a slightly more friendly environment.
Sure does look different with all of the interior gone.
The cross supports so that the winds don't fold up or collapse the upper part of the boat while I attend to other parts of the rebuild.
Another view looking forward post demolition.
The white is High Gloss EZPoxy Polyurethane Top Side Paint. Clearly it looks better than does the dingy brown.
The same is true here on the side walls. I do not intend to do the floor portion as a large portion of that will be refoamed after I install the new aluminum runners and cross braces which I still have to build.
The finished look is just as reflective and shiny as it is when it is wet. Yahoo!!
Man what a difference a little paint can make. This is only the first of the two coats I intend to apply.
Alternator ID Plate
Engine ID Plate
Alternator ID tag.
Engine ID tag.
Rear view of alternator
Engine Cylinder Head casting number
Top view of the engine prior to removing the full width cover.
Engine Block Casting Number
Another shot of the Aluminum runners and some of the cross supports that I am installing. Once the cross members are completed and installed I will refoam (2 part mix & pour foam) at least the front and sides. I may leave the center portion open to afford additional storage area not part of the original build.
A good picture of port aluminum runner. I am using a "High Lift" jack to raise the transom back to proper height as is has sagged nearly 4" due to the weight of engine. The black pile is the old wood 5" x 5" block that I accidentally kicked. It is nothing but powder/dust.
A close up view of the starboard side 5X5 engine support/mount.
Yet one more view of the debris (rotted wood that was at one time the 5"X5" engine support.
Obviously a bit out of sequence but more close up views of the severe wood rot that I found through out the entire vessel.
The rot is amazing. It is hard to imagine that the deterioration can be some complete.
More of the wood rot.
Still in the process of cleaning up post demolition.
This was the LPG gas line from the propane tank to the stove and the water heater. I thought that I heard a bad hissing noise.
Another view of the LPG gas line that runs from the tank in the rear of the vessel forward to the On Demand Water heater and stove.
Here is a photo taken on Tuesday July 17, 2018 which shows that I have now installed to two 2" X 4" x 1/4" X 20' 6061 Aluminum Hull supports that were originally made of laminated plywood that like everything else in this boat had turned to dust over time. You can also see the new "On Demand" H2O heater on the wall.
You can also see the new cross supports that I have built. I will glass them before closing it up. The original cross supports (as best I can tell, by trying to measure the severely rotted old ones were 14" tall). The new ones are 12" tall to afford tall folks like me a bit more head room.
looking aft with the bathroom unit on the right side of the photo.
A view from stern to stem as the floor supports and water tanks are starting to go in.
A different perspective post demolition and the very beginnings of rebuild/restoration. I opted to use 1/4" wall 2X4 6061 Aluminum rail/Runners.
The small black pipe just right of the rail is the original depth sounder sensor that was installed when the boat was first built. I am hopeful that having been lucky enough to find the original gage for the helm that it will work just like it did back in the day.
Just a snapshot of the engine and stern cowl cover as I continue my work to repair previous cutouts that were done free hand to accommodate a generator.
Some of the post repair work to fill in the large whole cut in the cowl.
The restoration continues. I upgraded the toilet to a Macerating toilet to make life a little easier for evacuation the black water tank as well as minimizing odors.
Building the floor support for the bathroom/toilet/shower.
A view looking forward of some of the floor and water tank progress. The "On Demand" water heater is on the right wall.
A view of the water pump and some of the plumbing.
Some of the floor panels are going in on a temporary basis. I will be cutting some access panels that can be removed to access voids/storage space beneath the floor as I will not be reinstalling all of the flotation foam.
A close up view of the water heater along with my electrical conduit and plumbing. (Pex Pipe).
More of the floor panels are in and a portion of the helm that I have rebuilt.
A look at some of the scramble in the back while the work continues.
The brand new cabinets purchased from Lowes Home Improvements are going in and will be fitted and adjusted as necessary.
Here is a photo of the the new engine mount that I built out of 4"X5" treated wood and topped off with 2X6 Red Wood. I have pulled he engine temporarily to paint it Chevrolet Orange before I reinstall it.
Another view of the new engine mount that I made to replace the severely rotted old one. I also coated the entire mount with fiberglass epoxy resin to assist in waterproofing it.
The firing order for this is typical of GM 4 cylinder engines. Starting at the 3 O'clock position & moving clockwise ==> 1, 3, 4, 2.
Looking aft to the port side, you can see the partially completed table that I have installed to provide me with a place for tools and supplies while I continue work on the plumbing and wall of the bathroom.
Here is the opposite side where I have been working on the cabinets that will be installed once I have finished the staining and completed the fabrication of additional cabinet structure that will house the refrigerator. I will also be install some additional aluminum cross bracing for the roof to better support the sun deck on the roof.
My work continues on the gray water tank that I have yet to install in the empty spot in the floor.
I have installed a wall and closet door that are original. I am hopeful that I can get the bad warping out of the door. The exterior portion of this wall will not be seen as it is a part of what will effectively sandwich the sliding glass door
Continuing the work on the counter and cabinets installation with a focus on the refrigerator and stove enclosures.
The dining table is installed and up. Next will come the bench seats on either side.
The forward bench seat to the dining table is built and in place. The jack is repositioned to raise the ceiling/roof back to it's original position as it has sagged a bit over time.
A shot of the plumbing and electrical that is still in-work under the bathroom sink.
Had to splice the gray water drain (via vacuum in those cases where dumping overboard is not appropriate)
Had to squeeze in one shot of the top of the "On Demand" water heater that is positioned under the kitchen sink once the counter top is installed.
The picture to the left is the place where the stove will go once I complete the plumbing for the kitchen sink drain and vent.
The work continues.
Finally completed the rebuild of the structural support for the back wall and sliding glass door assembly. The black cable is the housing through which the steering and throttle/gear shift cables run.
A close up of the transition through the major structural support beam for the steering and throttle.
Another closeup of the main support beam for the back wall and sliding glass door.
Now both dining bench seats have been built and installed. Beneath the bench seats (as is true under the cabinets too) I have designed and installed quick access panels that can be removed with a finger whole affording access through the floor down to the inner hull area. This will facilitate both maintenance and additional storage.
continuing the work on the counter and cabinets (both upper and lower).
A view looking aft of the main back wall and sliding glass door.
The plumbing and vent stuff that will be behind the stove is now complete.
another view looking aft at the main back wall with the closet door on the left. The back wall of the closet is where I have installed my master breaker boxes for both AC and DC electrical systems as well as housing ( in the bottom of the hull) the two marine deep cycle batteries.
Looking aft at the cabinets and counter top as my progress continues. I still need to complete the build of 1/2 wall on the forward side of the refrigerator.
I don't like the fact that this is too light to fit with the rest of the interior so will make it darker.
Another shot of the too light shade of stain.
I like the darker version much better. I still haven't decided if I want to do the matching wood grain on the top yet.
I will consider changing the top to match the wood grain of the controls section of the helm.
Almost finished. Still deciding whether or not I should make the top match the lower portion or leave it as is. Whatever I decide, I will shoot a couple of coats of clear UV resistant polyurethane.
Already have a bunch of the construction clutter on top of it, but here is the forward, starboard bench seat. Still have a bit more to do on it but you get the idea.
I have the cabinets up though the process is still not complete. Still have to hang the stove hood as well.
Here is the helm, so far. In this photo it is only just set in place and not secured as I still have some wiring to complete as well as needing to complete the steering.
The OMC Tru Course Steering is a little worse for ware but I have ordered a used replacement that I believe is in much better condition. Guess we'll see when it arrives.
The front view of the Tru-Course Steering.
Another view of the OMC Tru-Course Steering and tracking bezel/gage.
AKDY 30" Stainless Steel Under Cabinet Kitchen Grease Filters Range hood.
Nice upgrade from the original that had a dead fan motor for the vent portion. It is also wider than the original by 8".
12V 5.5 GPM 60 PSI Water Diaphragm Pressure Pump.
Higher volume and higher pressure than the standard water pump that will make using the on-board shower a little nicer.
SMETA Propane Refrigerator with Freezer 12V/110V/Gas LPG, No Noise, Fridge for Dorm Office Garage, Single Door, 3.5 cu ft, White.
Propane electric absorption refrigerator with freezer.
3-WAY Powered: Propane(LPG)/ AC110v/DC12v
Product dimensions (W*D*H): 20.6*23.2*32.2inch, 3.0 cu ft refrigerator and 0.4 cu ft freezer.
Large storage areas with slide-out storage shelves and clear plastic crisper drawer.
No noise and easy to operate: piezo ignition, flame indicator, gas/electric thermostat.
I have removed the Air Conditioner/Heater from the roof though it worked reasonably well because it was just "stupid heavy" and over time had caused a severe sag in the roof of nearly 4 inches. I am replacing it with a current model that is substantially lighter than the original by nearly 65 pounds.
Duo-Therm RV Air Conditioner
Brisk Air 15,000 Btu Complete With Control Box, Analog Thermostat and Return Air Grill for Ducted Systems.
3 Year Total Warranty. 15000 BTU rating, 15.2 amps, 115VAC, 102 pound installed weight.
I also added the Dometic Air Conditioning 120 Volt Heat Strip Assembly - Non-Ducted
These lights will be nice for night fishing, swimming and just be a cool presentation in any other case.
Dometic MasterFlush 7120 White 12V Electric Macerating Toilet.
Toilet flows into a 12 gallon black water tank that also has a macerating pump for evacuation when full.
Yuco YC-GP-DPDT 50 Amp Power Relay Double Pole Double Throw.
I am using to isolate a 3000Watt continuous Pure Sine Inverter anytime the boat/RV is connected to Shore Power to remove the risk of burning up the inverter.
This is a great marine radio with a lot of "whistles & bells" not typically available on a marine radio. To be sure, it is a lot of overkill for a vessel that is not likely to ever actually be a seagoing boat, the many capabilities are certainly nice to have.
Marine antenna for the Marine radio.
Standard Horizon SCU-31 GPS Smart AntennaThe Standard Horizon SCU-31 is a NMEA 0183 Smart Antenna that provides rapid acquisition time and NMEA output.
The Standard Horizon Smart Antenna is perfect for any closed bridge or pilot house boat. Built into every Smart Antenna is a 66 channel WAAS GPS receiver enabling unsurpassed satellite reception giving your Standard Horizon plotter little to no delay while moving on the navigation page. NMEA 0183 outputs allow for easy connectivity to your compatible chart-plotter. Each of these antennas are made with a UV protected coloring to reduce fading and come with 49 feet of cable.
12V 100W Marine Boat Remote Control Spotlight Searchlight.
This replaces the very "Old School" style manual spot light that was present when I bought the boat. Much brighter.
As is always the case, no boater ever wants to be in a position to need this, but should such a circumstance arise, this unit is substantially higher volume than most bilge pumps.
Marey Power Gas 10L 3.1 GPM Propane Gas Tankless Water Heater.
MAREY GA10LP Indoor Propane Gas Tankless Water Heater can provide up to 2.7 Gal. per minute for a perfect shower at 115°F output water temperature. It is also called water heater on demand, because it heats water only when needed, saving energy.
Standard Horizon 240SW 5 x 8 Rectangle 40 watt Hail/PA Horn. Great sound quality for loud hailer voice, horns, sirens and bells.
I have not yet tested this unit but I am thinking that it will result in NOT "needing" to install a regular horn when used with the marine radio that has that capability.
Power TechON 3000W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter 12V DC to 120V AC with 3 AC Outlets + 1 5V USB Port, 2 Battery Cables, and Remote Switch (6000W Peak) PS1004 .
This will afford high load AC power in the event that the generator isn't available and shore power is also not available.
22" 1296W LED Light Bar with both Spot and Flood beams.
Mounted both on the bow and the stern for all the light one could ever need.
Moeller Marine Below Deck Permanent Fuel Tank 27-Gallon, 36.5" x 16" x 11.75".
This is an upgrade from a 17 gallon after market tank that a previous owner had installed.
12V Universal Chrome 60,000 Volts Ignition Street Coil Canister with Resistor.
Much higher output to improve spark in the combustion chamber for better burn and subsequently, more power and efficiency.
Carter P4389 Universal & Marine Electric Fuel Pump.
I am installing to takeover the original mechanical fuel pump on the engine. I am considering using a "T" fitting to also feed an onboard generator.
Kohree 12V Led RV Ceiling Dome Light RV Interior Lighting which is an upgrade from the original incandescent system for greater efficiency and reduces electrical load.
Backup Camera and Monitor Kit.
Universal Wired Waterproof Rear-view License Plate Rear Backup Camera + 4.3 LCD Rear View Monitor which is mounted to the top of the stern so that the pilot can see whats behind while backing up. The screen is upgraded to a 7" screen mounted on the helm.
Kenwood Marine Boat Outdoor Bluetooth CD MP3 USB/AUX iPod iPhone Stereo Receiver 4x 6.5" Inch Dual Cone Enrock Marine Waterproof Speakers, Antenna (Black/Chrome)
The KMR-D375BT offers an abundance of musical sources, will streamline with the latest gear and sufficient sound to break up the noise of the wind and waves. The conformal-coated circuit board locks out the moisture and protects the unit from the environment and the openings are designed to keep salt and spray out of the player and ports.
LOUDSPEAKERS: Enrocks EM265C newly designed marine speakers have a rugged yet durable look. The weather-resistant material, combined with its solid construction proves it to be the best for your musical and listening outdoor experiences. The EM265C 6.5” speakers features a corrosion-proof basket that resists deterioration from salt, moisture, and UV rays, while the non-removable grille will maintain its perfect chrome finish
Set of 2 - Marine 4" Electric In-line Blower for Boats & RVs 12V Attwood Turbo 4000.
I expect that I may end up purchasing two more of these to help better ventilate the bilge & engine compartment where I will be installing an on-board generator under the cowling and so substantial ventilation will be required to assure the generator has sufficient fresh air to operate. I plan to plumb the exhaust directly to the exterior of the boat.
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Block.
I used to facilitate and upgrade in both safety and convenience as I have rewired the entire electrical system both both AC and DC systems. In the case of the AC system I used a 600 amp residential service breaker system and employed 6 15 amp breakers that afford one breaker for every AC outlet on the boat. Gross overkill to be sure but would be very nice to assist in isolating specific circuits should any trouble shooting ever be necessary.
Blue Sea Systems Add-A-Battery Kit
Simplifies switching. Isolates engine and house circuits. Combines batteries for emergency starting
Tin-plated copper studs for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance
12/24 Volt DC 120 Amp Automatic Charging Relay (PN 7610) automatically combines batteries during charging. Isolates batteries during engine cranking and when not charging
Includes E-series dual circuit plus battery switch (PN 5511E)
Shares the charge between two batteries more efficiently than a battery isolator
Bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt
Power-Max PM4 100A 110V AC to 12V DC 100 Amp Power Converter with Built-in 4 Stage Smart Battery Charger.
This unit will assure that batteries are being charged anytime there is AC power available.
This is apparently the original ID tag for this boat. The curiosity is that the engine in this boat is the 153c.i.d. 120 hp model and so the tag is wrong at 90 unless it was for an outboard maybe.
I have for months now contemplated doing a complete tear down and overhaul of this engine before reinstalling it in the boat. After firing it up as you see it here, I opted to go ahead with a full rebuild.
During the test run, while the engine ran "okay", it blew the oil fill/vent cap off as a result of the blow-by, suggesting bad rings and/or bad valves.
These are just pictures primarily for the purpose of leaving myself a picture of "what was" before my efforts.
View from the front of the engine.
The starboard side view.
Having dropped the oil pan at this point, I can now say that I made a good call. There was a tremendous amount of sludge and funky stuff (no metal though) in the bottom of the pan.
A closeup of the engine tag which traces to a 1970 model 153 C.I.D. marine engine. Imagine that.
Casting number on the intake/exhaust manifold.
Now pretty much stripped down to nothing more than the block, crank, cam shaft and pistons.
The cylinder head will be check and shaved as needed as well as a valve grind and seal replacement.
Top view of the intake/exhaust manifold.
Front/bottom view of the short block. The good thing seems to be that while I may have bad rings, the cylinder walls look to be in fair condition and everything else actually looks pretty damned good.
Back from C&C Machine shop where the Cylinders have been bored out .020, main & rods ground to .010. In short, a complete tear down and rebuild down to every last nut and bolt. New head bolts, new chrome-molly rod bolts and nuts. New cam shaft and gears, new hydraulic lifters.
Along with the machine work, included is new oil pump, completely rebuilt distributor, water pump, starter, and fuel pump. Also purchased a new alternator that does away with the need for a voltage regulator. I also decided to replace all of the connecting rod bolts and nuts after breaking one of them before even reaching 20 ft/lbs of torque. I had a horrible time locating any that would fit as nobody caries many parts for an engine that old, if and when their books even go back that far. I did however learn from my machinist who did all of the machine work that the rod bolts are the same as a Chevy 283 and 327 small journal, small block engine. Interestingly, even the tech specialist/engineer was unable to tell me that. I was just told that they do not carry any such thing. Little did he know that they actually did.
The cylinder head has been shaved and brand new valves lapped in. Also installing a new heat exchanger for the manifold to control the choke on the carburetors.
Little baby steps I suppose. This seems to be taking forever. Since I failed to order new Connecting Rod bolts and nuts until after everything else was done, I'm kind of at a stand still so to speak. That said, I have completed a complete rewire of the entire system.
I have also installed a oil pressure ignition cut-off switch which kills the engine if oil pressure drops below 12 psi. (located just above the starter solenoid.) There was no such capability on the original but I wanted to have a little extra safety margin since I spent so much $$$$ rebuilding this engine, never mind the whole boat.
Still awaiting arrival of the new Chrome Molly Con. Rod Bolts and nuts so have been moving ahead as much as I can with the other stuff. Installed a brand new heat exchanger as the old one was completely rusted in half.
I had to reorder another new water pump as I learned that the pulley's would not line up correctly as the first one was an additional 3/8" forward from the block.
I have installed a new water Block Drain with a brass ball valve assembly as opposed to the original petcock valve. I have not yet decided how I will address the issue of the stripped out fuel inlet valve assembly found on both carburetors as I have found that both are stripped. I have several options that include an epoxy-like thread repair system made by both Loctite and Permatex, Nutserts or Helicoil, and of course replacement carburetor bodies that do not have stripped out fuel inlet valve threads.
One Wire Marine Alternator OMC Prestolite 105 Amp
This is an upgrade from the original 60 Amp with external regulator.
Brand New Alternator - Delco 10SI Series Internally Regulated - Self Energizing 105Amp, 12 Volt, CW, Single Groove Pulley
The engine is running great on initial start up and run though I still need to syn the carburetors and adjust timing for peak performance. I have also opted to use Amsoil "BREAK-IN oil until everything get settled into place. Being and Amsoil dealer, I know that benefits of using this product in addition to wanting to assure this engine, like all of my other work on this project last for a very long time. That will be a while as I have discovered that the fuel pump is shot and though they used to make repair kits for these types of fuel pumps, I have been unable to find one and so am looking to buy a entirely new fuel pump that matches the original as soon as I can confirm that it is in fact a match.
Again, Amsoil is my choice across the board and this oil filter will run on this engine from day one.
Finally have the engine rebuild completed and reinstalled into the boat. Just a few more tweaks & adjustments yet to be accomplished before continuing the completion of the floor build out.
Port side view of the rebuilt engine post reinstall.
Starboard side view of the engine post rebuild and reinstall. Still have to complete the rewire of a few non-engine components and etc. before closing it up.
1st view of the push-pull steering rod that is connected to the steering cable that comes back from the helm. The only issue is that the cable housing on the inboard side of the transom is badly deteriorated due to rust and neglect. I have yet to figure out whether disassembly is possible and if so, how it is accomplished.
2nd view of the through transom "Push-Pull" steering. while it still works and I have disassembled for cleaning and re-greasing, I have been unable to identify it nor have I figured out how to disassemble it (if that is even possible) so that I can replace the steering cable as the cable housing on the inboard side is badly rusted and badly damaged.
Just a different view of the steering rod that goes through the transom and connects to the engine.
The cleaned up version of the OMC badge on the stern drive.
This stamp is found on the upper forward portion of the out drive/stern-drive but I do not know what the significance might be.
Access hatch to the top side though the hatch itself is missing and I will have to fabricate a new one.
The original hinges are still in place so all I need to do is fabricate a new hatch which I will accomplish with fiberglass layering to make a "see through" hatch cover.
Obviously still need to install the hardware but stern engine cowl is seated in place.
Another view of the engine cowl that is still in need of installation completion but we are yet one more step closer to completing the project.
This video is an interior walk-through right after arriving home as well. It will be interesting to see how well I am able to maintain originality to the total strip, gut and restore her.
This video is of the engine at idle immediately after I completed rebuilding it after the machine work was done. Cylinders bored to .020 over with mains and rods machined to .010 over. I also completely rebuilt both carburetors, fuel pump & the starter.
This is the engine at about 3000 rpm post rebuild. I have to say that I am pleased . Other replacements internally include a new oil pump, hydraulic lifters, rod bolts and head bolts. Additionally I installed a new water pump and installed an oil pressure cutoff switch which will kill the engine if the oil pressure drops below 12 psi.
A part of the original brake actuator assembly
Original brake actuator assembly label
Lateral view of the dual axles and suspension.
One of the original 10 rollers on this trailer.
The original 2 speed manual winch. This one could be reused but is in pretty sad shape and so I have ordered a new one of these and will install it on the new trailer.
Dutton-Lainson Hand Winch TUFFPLATE Finish
2 Speed - Direct Drive - 2,500 lbs
This Dutton-Lainson 2-speed, heavy-duty winch is designed for multipurpose horizontal pulling operations. It has a manually controlled hand brake for load release.
Features:
Heavy-duty winch is designed for horizontal pulling. Hand brake for manually controlled load release. Perfect for boat trailers with a heavy boat or steep ramp. Permanently lubricated bearings. Reversible ratchet pawl can be installed to allow cable to wind off top or bottom of reel. Quick-attach handle allows easy change from high speed to low gear for heavier loads. Ergonomic handle grip. Zinc TUFFPLATE finish. Made in the USA
The original trailer. It is so badly rusted out that it is truly amazing that it even held the boat long enough for me to get it home. It is being completely rebuilt using the original axles and fenders. The fabricator will be using this trailer as the template for the rebuild as it, from the outset, was my game plan. I simply was unwilling to risk all of my time, efforts and $$$$$ restoring the boat itself to a totally rotten trailer that would surely drop it on the roadway while in tow.
While I already knew that the trailer had severe rust issues hence my decision to have it rebuilt, this and the following few photos show just how significant the problem really was. I stopped by the fabrication shop (Mesilla Valley Metals) today ( 09/09/2020) to see how the project is going.
These guys are truly amazing. I asked them to use the original trailer as a template to rebuild a new trailer. They are using much better quality materials and are in deed staying true to the original design.
If this original trailer lasted for 50 years, the one that Mesilla Valley Metals is building for me will probably last at least twice that long.
They are reusing the original axles, fenders and shock absorber mounts, which is what I asked them to do. They will also add metal tubing down the side rails so that I can run the electrical wiring for the lights too.
It is coming along and almost finished. You can see just a small portion of the original trailer in the upper left (kind of white) that the welder/fabricator Bill used as a template for the rebuild. It truly is a remarkable difference in every regard..
Just a few more items to be added to accomodate the wiring. Mount the jack stand. Again in this photo you can see the original trailer in the background.
Another angle of the step by step progress. I am pleased with the progress.
Mesilla Valley Metals here in Las Cruces has done a phenominal job so far. Excited to pick up the completed project.
This trailer will be far superior to the original in overall strength & durability. They will add a base coat of primer when it is all done so that it is better protected until I get it home for full painting.
I finally got the trailer back home. $4000 rebuild. As mentioned previously, I had them use the same axles and fenders and so needed to look into the brakes and shock absorbers to assure they are up to par as well. They are not.
This is one of the 4 original Hub/Drums 7" X 1-3/4". Though they are dry as a bone, the bearings and races are excellent and will only need to be regreased. The seals on the other hand have been ordered. $12 each
This is the view inside the drums. It appears that the brakes were never used at any time ever. Kind of interesting as the trailer has surge brakes and so the only way I can figure the brakes never worked is if the brake fluid reservoir was never filled. In any case I will be reuseing these as well.
These are the original brake shoes. ASBESTOS, no less and obviously never used.
The original back plate and slave cylinder. All four slave cylinders were seized and unusable. I was unable to find appropriate replacements so have opter for brand new complete assemblies which include back plate, slave cylinders, shoes and springs. cost $350. I also ordere two new wheels and tires as there are no spares for this trailer.
Here is another view of the brakes with the brake drum removed.
The shock absorbers are proving to be a real bear to find. They are Gabriel 610715 and not made any more, like the boat itself. It is also true that after several days of searching, I have been unsuccessful at finding anything even close to these. I am hopeful that the folks at A-1 Shock Absorber Company can help me out. The folks at the Gabriel factory sent me there as they are apparently good at pulling rabbits out of their hats. We'll see.
The new and improved trailer built to exacting specifications by using the origianal trailer as a template, albeit that it was built with much higher quality steel than was available back in the day. Still used the original axles and fenders.
